On three reasons to visit one of America’s most defining spots.
Concord’s Minute Man National
Historic Park is one of the most unique and effective historic sites I’ve
ever encountered. While the park does have a perfectly acceptable visitor’s
center, complete with exhibits and an orientation
film and the like, its true genius resides outside—in the five-mile Battle Road Trail,
a walking path that takes visitors from Concord to Lexington, along the route
of the Revolution’s first battles. The Trail encompasses famous sites such as
North Bridge (home to the
“shot heard ‘round the world”), anonymous yet exemplary ones such as the
eleven 18th-century “witness houses” that stand along the way, and
various wetlands, woods, rocky terrain, and open fields along the way—and while
of course it can’t possibly be what it was in 1775, it sure feels in many spots
as if we could be then and there, marching with the Minute Men or the Redcoats.
A few miles away stands a much more overtly artificial yet just as
compelling historic re-creation: a replica
of Henry David Thoreau’s Walden Pond cabin. If the Battle Road Trail
impresses at least in part because of its extent, the sense it gives of how far
the troops on both sides marched through still-dark terrain, the uncertainty
and fear of battle and death all around them, the Thoreau cabin replica does
precisely the opposite: the tiny dwelling looks more like an outhouse than a
man’s primary abode for two years. Yet it is apparently a close approximation
of Thoreau’s cabin, based on the extensive details he provides in Walden (1854); and
while it smallness might at first make the cabin feel anticlimactic, that
emotion quickly turns to admiration, to a recognition that (however much he mythologized certain details in
his book) Thoreau did indeed construct a home in which he could—must—live very simply during his
sojourn at the pond.
Walden Pond itself does not feel as it did during Thoreau’s 1845-1847 stay,
of course. While Don Henley and
other activists have so far succeeded in their quest to save the pond from
development, the trek from the replica cabin to the pond crosses a busy state
road and leads down to a public beach, complete with restrooms and lifeguard
station, left-behind plastic shovels, ropes extending into the water to
designate the children’s swimming area, and so on. But to my mind those things
are not only generally good (it’s a beautiful spot for a family beach trip) but
specifically right—Thoreau liked to emphasize his solitude (again, often at the
expense of reality), but he also wanted all Americans to get to Walden Pond and
its equivalents far more often. And if you swim out, past the ropes and across
the pond, out where you might indeed encounter
a loon, you can most definitely find your way to the essence—of the place,
of Thoreau’s ideas, of the powerfully American histories and stories to which
it all connects.
Next daytrip tomorrow,
Ben
PS. Thoughts on these places? Other daytrips you’d
highlight?
PPS. A couple other reader suggestions:
ReplyDelete--The Shelburne Falls Bridge of Flowers (http://www.bridgeofflowersmass.org/)
--Holyoke's Dinosaur Footprints (http://www.thetrustees.org/places-to-visit/pioneer-valley/dinosaur-footprints.html#t4)
--The Rokeby Museum's "Free and Safe" exhibition (http://www.rokeby.org/)
If one does visit Walden Pond, continue beyond the replica cabin and remember to find the site of the real thing, a relatively short and simple hike from the swimming area at Walden. Also, a visit to Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is an absolute must for those who admire the Concord authors (and Concord grapes, if you can find Mr. Ephraim Bull).
ReplyDeleteAlso, I feel obligated to point out that The Wayside is one of those witness structures and one generally open to the public (currently under rehabilitation). Unrecognizable today from its appearance in 1775, it is probably better remembered as the home of the Alcott family and the Hawthornes. It is one building which very well sums up so much of what makes Concord great.
Great post.